Cairo, Egypt - The world is my oyster... only if I can get outta Egypt...

Alexandria, Egypt - Laaaddddieeeees!!!

Fairly busy morning. Two important metro trips (I love the subway!). First trip was to the Syrian Embassy. Nice visa guy there but he couldn't produce a visa for me. Apparently, only Egyptians and resident foreigners qualify for such a privilege. I wish I had known that 10 months ago when I was still at home. So, the overland route to Asia was out of the question.

[Ed. note: My American friend Rob, whom I met in Siwa, was able to obtain a Syrian visa at the border between Syria and Jordan. So, don't give up. Just go to the border.]

The second metro trip was to the southern suburb of Maadi. There I found, right by the metro station, the legendary Egypt Panorama Tours. According to LP, they are the cream of the crop when it came to reliable travel agencies (that's not difficult considering the snake oil travel agents in Midan Tahrir). The guy at Panorama was very helpful. Well, at least not snarky. Seems like the most economical way home (or at least the most direct way) was Cairo to Montreal. Then from there I'd buy a WestJet ticket for YYC.

Interesting... For 90 bucks more I can buy a ticket for Bangkok, Thailand then overland via Cambodia/Vietnam to HK. I can visit my friend Wasta and book a ticket home from there.

You'd think the right decision was a no brainer...

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, June 11/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Rollin' the dice...

Boy #1 - the guide, Harar, Ethiopia...

Certainly a good news/bad news kind of day.

Good news: Finally got the Sudanese visa. As an added bonus it has a period of validity of one month and 2 full weeks of transit time. That makes Thursday the perfect day to arrive at the border. Can't see myself spending another 6 days in Ethiopia though. I have to be aware that my Egyptian via expires on the 26th of May. Perhaps I should go to Gambella for a few days?

Bad news: Still haven't located the Bahar Dir minibus station. The tourist office wasn't aware that it existed and suggested it might be located around Habte Gyorgis Bridge (like the guidebook said). May as well check out the Autobes Terra (main bus station) too while I'm at it. The longer I chase after this, what seems to be mythical, Bahar Dir minibus the more skeptical I get...


Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, May 4/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Bubba and the Big Breakfast...

Breakfast (well, in between orders of firfir) with the new NGO's...

2 developments today. One, the breakfast for all my new NGO's went off without a hitch. Met up with the contact person for "the project", Nezro (sp?). I thought I was treating 4 or 6 kids but eight showed up. Ordered up 3 huge mountainous platters of firfir at a local eatery (a place I'd never find on my own). Predictably, the kids scarfed it down pretty fast. Everyone appeared to have a good time.

Nezro informed me that the kid's need shoes and he wants me to finance the deal. He also wants me to buy them breakfast again tomorrow! Look, I really don't see myself as chintzy but I felt like a walking sack of money, again. I sense very little appreciation when I do this kind of stuff. I don't want these kids to depend on me for handouts but the need for the very basics is so overwhelming.

As my Polish friend said, Ethiopians must look after their own at some point.

In contrast, Nezro said, at the medical clinic where we took one of the kids after breakfast, "only the Westerners care [about the poor]. Rich Ethiopians really don't give a damn."

Well, maybe they, the rich Ethiopians should stop raping and pillaging the place and give back to the community. Suffice to say, I'm kind of torn, as an outsider, as to what to do for these kids... All I know is this lil' project seemed to have fallen on my increasingly reluctant lap...

Nezro's taking off tomorrow to visit his wife. Maybe I should take the day off as well to focus on my impending departure, like Anthony... Ok, I'm waiting for my personal bolt of lightning to hit me square on the ass but, dammit, I'm a poor tourist, not a social worker/philanthropist...

After breakfast, I hoofed it down to the Sudan Embassy... Got there at 1000, plenty of time to submit the application. Mohammed and Sharif (kind of sad when you get to know the embassy staff by their first name for the wrong reasons...) were still acting like complete a$$holes again and not answering my knocking at the steel gate/door on the Embassy's perimeter. I knew I had to be persistent to get any service. So, I kept knocking at the door with a coin in hand. That made such a grating noise. Within minutes, Mohammed cracked the door open. He reached out, grabbed me by the arm and pulled me through the opening and into the compound. I gave Sharif my papers and passport and left as fast as I came in. I should have reviewed my visa requirements but I forgot.

Further logistical problems with regards to finding a minibus ride back up to Bahar Dir. I inquired at the front desk of the hotel, all the receptionists referred me to "landcruiser guy" who charged 250 birr for the trip. Suspiciously, the "Canadian lady" in the room next to mine only had to shell out 120 birr for the Bahar Dir journey just last weekend. For some unknown reason, she was reluctant to share any info on how to get a similar ticket... I don't know what to think anymore...other than I gotta get outta here...now.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, May 3/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Still here...

This day had potential to be disastrous. I went back to the Sudanese Embassy today for clarification. People are getting to know me down there especially front men Mahmoud and Sharif. At first they ignored my call at the gate, but I clanged on the metal door with an Ethiopian coin long enough to get their attention.

It's so difficult talking to the black man (visa guy). They should really hire someone who is fluent in English. From my best understanding of what he said, 14 days is 14 days total. From the moment he stamps my passport, I have exactly 14 days to clear Sudan. I can fit one day in Axum in the far north next to Eritrea but that would be dangerous, leaving me 2 days leeway to get to Khartoum. I'd have to apply for an visa extension in Sudan in that case. Knowing Africa too well (maybe), anything could happen and delay my departure.

Got word from Tom, the border dodger, today. He had his day in court. Guilty as charged. Poor guy has to fork out 500 USD and leave within 3 days. I thought I had problems.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Apr 2/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Coffee, tea or...visa hell...

The days here in Addis start at about 900. I usually walk down to my favourite coffee house Cafe Tomoca. A pretty classy joint, Tomoca is based on an Italian cafe: stand up counters, and dark wood paneling. It seems to be a favourite of Addis business men as well. They gather at the counters, ignoring the ceiling mounted TV blaring out BBC world. Instead, they partake in hugely animated discussions, with frequent outbursts erupting around the small room. The waiter brings me my macchiato and cake. A good way to start the day, especially today.

How I wished the predicament I'm in was an April fool's Joke. First, the good news. I'm topped up with enough USD to get me through the Sudan (knock on wood). I made the transaction with Brittany last night. I'm taking the USD she got on the black market off her hands at the black market rate. Slightly expensive, but I just want this problem to go away.

On the subject of Brittany, she planted seeds of doubt in my mind. I asked for a 14 day visa. My understanding is that the black man said the visa was valid for 14 days and 14 days thereafter in Sudan. Brittany believed that I had 14 days from Addis to the Egyptian border at Wadi Halfa.

I'm going to have to clarify this bone of contention. Soon.

I went out with the girls (Louise, Emily, and Brittany, of course) from the Baro last night. Had dinner at the Khayyam Restaurant, serving Ethiopian/Arab dishes. That was fun. Afterwards we went to a bar for drinks. Hey they're kinda fun. Louise, a young English woman, seemed to be quite proper but with an edge. A fun edge. At times she would say the most outrageous, as she calls it - random, things that just cracked me up totally. Ahhh, the exuberance of youth... Suffice to say, we didn't get home till the wee hours...

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Apr 1/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Khartoum, here i come!!

siddist kilo...

not many african countries can say they weren't colonies at some point of in their histories. ethiopia can claim colony-free status. that doesn't mean some european country haven't had imperialistic eyes on it's territory though. back in the day (1880s to about 1916) there was the mad dash for establishing african colonies by the likes of England, France, Belgium, and Germany. Italy, the poor sister was stuck with 2 iddy biddy tracks of land, Eritrea and Somalia. they thought it would be a good idea to link the two by forcibly acquiring ethiopia. surprisingly, the plucky ethiopians beat back the kings of pasta at the battle of adwa in 1896. To this day, this victory is a source of great national pride for ethiopians. bloodied and still clearly rankled by it early defeat, the princes of pizza hit back and occupied the country from 1936 to 1941. the italians fought a brave and effective ethiopian insurgency. however, an attempt on the life of a italian viceroy failed miserably in 1937 resulting in a massacre of ethiopians at the hands of their occupiers. the obelisk in the centre of siddist kilo (opposite the university of addis ababa) serves as a memorial to those victims of the massacre. how about that for a history lesson, steve h.?

I got it!!! I got the Sudanese visa (sort of)!!! Overnight service!!! I don't know why they gave it so fast!!! I DON'T CARE!!! It took most of this morning. I got to the embassy early and lined up with 3 other farangi and a large group of Ethiopians nationals. It took me nearly 3 hours of waiting to see this guy, who shall be referred to as the "black" guy. He looked at the passport and the forms I filled in. His verdict? You are the luckiest bastard in the world and you're gonna see Khartoum, baby...! Ok, he didn't use those exact words. I asked for 2 weeks? Why? Well, I'm an overlander... No problem... This whole scene was getting better and better. Then he dropped a bomb.

"I'll give you two weeks to get to the border...", he said. Or, at least that's what I thought he said. I asked him to repeat. Same answer. Two weeks.

"But I've got all of Ethiopia to see yet", I responded.

He told me to pay the 61 USD fee now and come back when I'm finished looking around.

I kept the receipt and had the black man write down the particulars of my situation on the application. And, that was that... Now, I had to juggle the expiry/validation dates of 3 visas. Didn't matter. Just as long as I was assured of the Sudanese one.

I was so excited for the rest of the day. Nothing could wipe the grin off my face the entire bus ride home to the Piazza.

Tonight I went over to the Baro Hotel to visit with my buddy Tom, the border dodger. He was a little discouraged because he had his court date postponed. But, lo and behold, sitting on the deck was the Brittany, the American girl who has been following me (vice versa) since Uganda.

"Why are you here? Where are Claus and John (the Dane and Swede she's been travelling with)?

Apparently, the Sudanese have been screwing around with her visa application. They're prepared to give her only one week to clear Sudan. Now she was considering flying over the whole damn country. The Danish/Swedish expedition was now in Gondar. Way up north. Their Sudanese visas came through. So, they'll be driving...

check out this posting as well. click here.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Mar 29/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Show me the money...

Looking towards downtown Addis. The Sheraton is the red roofed complexed to the left. Noticed the shacks in the front of it.

Luuuuuuuuucccccccccccccyyyyyyyyyyy where are yoooouuu?

Haile Selassie's throne chair...

Addis, from my observations so far, is a place of few socio-economic haves and a whole lot of have nots. The penultimate examples which illustrate this vast divide in Ethiopian society are the shiny towers of the Hilton and Sheraton Hotels and how they soar above the surrounding sorrowful slums.

Today's priorities were to find these hotels (using minibuses, of course). Unfortunately, these are the only places in Addis where it's possible to get a cash advance using a Visa card.

The first stop was at the Hilton (no sign of Paris). Lovely but showing it's age, customers and expats are often found at poolside (10 USD entrance fee) either taking a dip or sipping fru-fru drinks. The ATMs take Visa cards but I don't have a PIN. There are 3 banks in-house banks' exchange rate really sucked.

I had to try the Daschen Bank about 20 minutes walk away at the Sheraton Hotel. Owned by the richest man in Ethiopia, the Sheraton was the poshest place in town (300 USD per night gets you a room with a closeup view of the slums, A/C, and a mini fridge) and don't the NGO's know it. The parking lot is packed with fancy schmancy UN SUVs and the like. Bloody hell, I can see why the Americans are pissed off at the UN. They throw out the book when it comes to expense accounts.

It was hilarious that they let me in the hotel. I must have looked like a hobo with my "well worn" traveling ensemble. I found the Daschen Bank in a maze of dark hardwood paneled corridor lined with first world gift boutiques. How smashing wouldn't you say? Got the necessary cash advance in Birr. I asked if I could withdraw USD, but they would have none of it. The only way to buy USD legitimately was if you were leaving the country on a plane... I sensed a cashflow problem brewing if I can't get USDs. My bad for bad financial planning.

After extracting myself from the A/C of the hotel, I climbed back on the bus and made my way to the Egyptian Embassy. The sidewalk scene I had to walk through to get there was pretty chaotic: students, vendors, beggars, and worst of all, loiterers. I thought I was the target of pickpockets at one point. Working in tandem, one thief in front of me turned into my path and hit me pretty hard with his shoulder. Sorry, sorry he said. I staggered a bit but kept walking. In the next step, his accomplice blocked my way with a open newspaper. What the hell? I just walked through the paper without stopping leaving him in my wake. I wasn't fully aware of what was happening or might have happened. Gotta keep my wits about me. At least nothing was missing.

As promised I got the visa. The easy one was over and done with.

I'm was so damn efficient today, I had time to visit the National Museum aka home of Lucy (Australopithecus sp.), fossilized remains of the earliest known hominid ever. I was really looking forward to seeing the remains but for the life of me I could not confirm Lucy's presence. I mean they had an impressive number of skulls on display, including 2 or three of Australopithecus sp., but there was no sign pointing out Lucy. Come on. As a museum you have to capitalize on Lucy. She by default should have been THE centre piece of the entire museum... In comparison with it's ethnographic counterpart, the museum just lacked interpretation and flow.

Am I a museum snob?

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Mar 28/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - Change of plans...

university of addis ababa. nice, eh. the ethnographic museum is in the background.

the museum is on the top floor while the library is on the ground floor. the museum is first rate in my books.
There's been a change in strategy. I'm applying for a Sudanese transit visa. Under advisement from the American girl, Sarah, this is the only way to get a visa of any kind. So, today's project was to apply for an Egyptian visa. The Sudanese will need to see some proof of onward travel.

One of the more challenging things about travel is trying to figure out the public transit system of enormous cities like Addis. I asked the hotel's manager for help. She pointed to the spot on the map of the Piazza de Gaulle where minibuses heading to Arat kilo (square) stopped. From there I have to climb on another minibus and so on...

Theoretically it seemed simple by minibus, but it turned problematic when I got to the Piazza bus stop. First, all the minibuses looked the same. They weren't numbered so I couldn't figure out their routes. Instead, I had to listen for the the conductors to call out their destinations. It was difficult because of the traffic noise and the fact that they spoke really fast. I asked a few conductors where they were going and was brushed off because they didn't understand me. Anyway, the whole situation was pretty chaotic with buses coming and going.

Eventually, I did make somewhat sense of it all. I hit all the landmarks along the way. The last bit about landmarks was necessary because 99 percent of the streets in Addis are not signposted. Of the one percent remaining that were identified by signs, the names did not match the ones on my map. And to top it off, the Egyptian Embassy was not marked on my guidebook's map.

Surprise, surprise...I found the Embassy in a labyrinth of nameless lanes just northwest of the University of Addis Ababa with about an hour to spare till close. I was shocked to find out the visa for Canadians was 50 USD or 410 Ethiopian birr. What the hell did Canada do to Egypt this time. [ed. note: fees for such things as visas are usually set according to diplomatic reciprocation. i.e. canada raises the fee for egyptians applying for canadian visas then the egyptian government reciprocates for canadians. it's insane. apparently, the canadian government has made plenty of enemies around and canadian travelers really pay for it. thanx steve h.] Once again, I didn't have enough of either currency even when added together. The nice Egyptian lady behind the desk pointed towards the door and the closest bank. Shit. It was at least 3 km away. Hot and really bothered, I made it back with the money...I should be able to pick up tomorrow.

I walked back to the main road and parked myself in the patio deck of a cafe. Pastries are a favorite of Ethiopians. I ordered a couple of pieces (chocolate cake and a donut) and washed them down with a couple of macchiatos (better than Starbucks but served in tiny little cups) while watching the University crowd milling about.

It was still early in the day. So, I took in the ethnographic museum on the grounds of the University. It had to be the best museum outside of the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg. Very well organised and the exhibits were jam packed with information about the tribes of Ethiopia. I wished I came here before Omo.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Mar 27/07
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Addis Ababa, Ethiopia - the diplomatic run around...

For lack of a photo to post, i give you another in a series of badly written postcards i sent home. this time i wrote from the omo valley.

[ed. note: the primary reason i'm in Addis is to get a visa for sudan. one of requirements is to get a letter of introduction from the Canadian Embassy. that plus a couple of passport photos and hand in the required application forms. simple as that. not. next few postings will illustrate the hoops that the sudanese made me jump though.]

Not much happened today other than I made it to the Embassy [Canadian]. As usual, there's a couple layers of security to get through. But, once on the grounds, I could not help but feel I stepped into the set of Fantasy Island. The main building is palatial. The cost of the letter was 50 dollars (Steve must be laughing all the way to the bank). Canadian dollars not USD. Who the hell carries Canuck bucks? I had a fat 50 USD bill burning in my pocket but it's worth nothing here. Change was not possible. I didn't have enough Ethiopian birr (the alternative). So, I walked a mile to the closest bank.

I forked over the money only to find out they couldn't issue the form letter (it's always a form letter) right away. Makes me want to, well, hurt someone.

Took an expensive cab ride to the embassy. The cabbie swore, on an orthodox christian bible, that it was impossible and "waste of time" trying to get the Sudanese visa. With that ringing assessment I may as well have stayed home under the bed covers wishing the world would go away.

There is hope though. I met a girl tonight who is picking up her Sudanese visa tomorrow. AND, she's one of those evil Americans! It only took her a week of waiting.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Mar 26/07
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Moyale, Ethiopia...and the road from hell

is that a mercedes in the back of that truck? (isiolo, kenya)

Jeremy (the white guy). Very cool guy from my hometown of Calgary. He's now living in London as a music producer...

The desert north of Marsabit. Ethiopia is somewhere over the horizon...
I was walking around Isiolo last night hoping to spot these transport trucks that were suppose to materialize. Isiolo's a dump but I needed provisions for the eventual ride to Ethiopia. The supermarket described in LP no existed. So, I tried some of the hole-in-the-wall stores on the main street.

Isiolo wasn't as scary as I was led to believe (even at dusk). There were a lot of people on the streets but they all seem to be busy. I came across a truck. Unusual load I thought. In the back was a yellow car. A mercedes benz! The same people whom I met at the Upper Hill Campsite in Nairobi... They had to be here, somewhere. What were the odds of meeting them again? I started my semi-desperate inquiries.

"Where are the mzungus who own this car", I asked the closest loiterers around the truck. Some guy leads me to a street front hotel. The reception said they were gone (checked out). They're supposed to be in a bar. Which bar? For a one street town, there was a shitload of taverns in Isiolo. DON'T PANIC, I thought to myself. First bar nothing. Second, nothing. Third, zip. We entered the fourth bar, got past the sleazy owner, to find the familiar mzungu faces of a wild haired man and a hot blond woman sitting at a table littered with beer bottles. Our eyes met. They were as surprised to see me as I was to see them. At the same table were 2 other mzungu men (later I found out they were Spanish - Luis and Antonio.

They (Anna and Jeremy) insisted that I join them on the truck. I didn't think twice and took them up on their offer. I went back to the hotel to pack. Hastily bought some provisions. Went back to the bar to meet them. We loaded up the truck. It was dark by the time we took off at 8 PM.

Within minutes, we ran out of tarmac. The road was horrible. Full of potholes. The truck shook like the devil as we drove over brutal corrugations in the road. The chattering of my teeth would give me a headache. Anna and Jeremy was in the back with the mercedes while I was up front with the Spanish guys. The reverberations of the truck didn't seem to affect the Spanish as they kept up with their contiguous bantering.

After the first break, Anna suggested I move to the back. I wholeheartedly obliged. The rest of the time I drank sweet wine, had shots of whiskey, and listened to good music. Suffice to say, the road didn't seem so bad after that.

We reached the sleepy town of Marsabit, almost at the halfway point, at 4 in the morning. The streets were deserted. We stopped in a nondescript compound lit by a single lonely street lamp. I was exhausted but my legs begged to be stretched. I walked out into the darkness. The starry sky was brilliant. Being so close to the equator, I could see the North Star and the Southern Cross in the same sky. I was exhausted and headed back to the truck hoping to catch a couple of hours of sleep before moving on.

We were rudely awakened by the blast given off by the truck's engine. Damn, it was only 6 AM. Seemed like everyone had deep slumbers. During the night the Mercedes hood ornament went missing. Some kid was walking around with a nice piece of bling hanging around his neck. Further inspection revealed damage to the paint job. Sometime last night a chair had fallen on the side of car. Jeremy and Anna were pretty pissed. "The Manager" thought the situation was rather amusing. He would suffer the wrath of both my friends. They just railed on him. Let's just say he fell into line for he rest of the trip.

As were were departing, we encountered a white guy walking by the road. We stopped. Apparently, Jeremy and Anna knew him. Tom had arrived a few hours before us. He too was on the way to Moyale but this was as far as he got. He climbed on board. En route he informed me that he didn't have an Ethiopian visa!

The scenery beyond Marsabit was surreal and pretty stark. Just outside the town, I saw a huge crater (at least 2 km wide and 500 m deep). I suspect the remnants of a volcano. We were surrounded by plains of scrub and broken by numerous brown volcanic cones dotting the landscape. Occasionally, we encountered camel trains and flocks of sheep tended to by nomadic tribesman.

We finally reached Moyale at 1500h. Only the last kilometre stretch of the road to Ethiopia was paved. We could have spent the night on the Kenyan side but after the torture of the past 36 hours just wanted to get the hell out. The border routine went off without a hitch except for Tom. The Ethiopians wouldn't issue him a visa on the spot. The only legal options were to head back to Nairobi and apply for one or have his government plead his case. Two daunting prospects. He walked off rather pissed off at himself for checking the visa situation beforehand.

See also, this entry...

Moyale is here: N03 31.909 E39 03.123.

Out of Canuckistan - A travel blog, Mar 15/07
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plan A: miracle on sand or anything is possible in africa.

Khartoum here i come!!!

wahoooo!!!

i went to the sudanese embassy this morning dreading the worst. instead i came away with overnight service for a visa (of course, after i forked over $61 USD).

the outcome just shocked the bejeezus out of me. i was expecting a long wait.

why was given expedited service? to tell you the truth: I REALLY DON'T GIVE A RAT'S ASS. ha! It's fun to speculate though. I think it was a combination of the following:

1. i looked like i was from the PRC - peoples' repub. of china.
2. i waited quietly for 2.5 hrs. watching 42 ethiopians ahead of me in the que jump through the bureaucratic hoops in getting their visas. i actually didn't see any visas granted to them...
3. i applied for only a transit visa (i.e. go straight through, do not collect my 200 dullah) which was purported to be much easier to obtain than it's rich cousin, the tourist visa.
4. i showered and shaved this morning and put on my only long sleeved shirt.
5. the man behind the visa desk thought, "that poor chinese bastard has patiently sat there for the last 2.5 hrs. without saying a word. he needs a visa today or tomorrow."

having hindsight now, the 4 days of pounding the pavement was worth it (ok, i fit in some museum time). 2 trips to the canadian embassy to pay 50 bucks for a letter of introduction -- i got to write jackass steve h. for a refund. 2 trips to the egyptian embassy for a $50 USD visa -- i got to write jackass steve h. for another refund. and, 2 trips to the bank to finance this debacle.

so this is plan A. it's a bit complicated. the sudanese visa will be valid for only 2 weeks. unfortunately, i need at least 3 more weeks to look around ethiopia (the very basics). to borrow time, I'm heading to Harrar (way out in the east) after taking in the Mercato in addis, in 2 days. harrar is home of the famous Hyena Man. should be brill watching him feed the hyenas. i'll probable spend 2 or 3 days out there. then it's back to collect my sudanese visa here.

from that point in time, the clock will start. I've got 2 weeks to reach the sudan border. on the way, i've got to find the Lost Ark of the Covenant. that's tall order my friend...

upon entering the sudan, i will have 2 weeks to clear the country. fortunately, the visa is extendable in khartoum if there there are any "unforeseen" delays (effectively making it a tourist visa). khartoum will be brill. look out Royal City of Meroe.

on top of all this I have 2 months to reach wadi halfa, on the shores of Lake Nasser, and enter egypt.

it's gonna be brill.

did i mention i love to travel (especially when things work out).

(by the way, the plan B i was contempting was sailing to yemen via djibouti, hiring camels to cross into oman and then jump the strait of hormuz and land in iran. not a bad itinerary, eh? maybe next time)

ciao.

where are da white folks?

after eight hour bus ride, i'm in maputo, mozambique. it's a world of difference with respect to SA.

maputo's much more relaxed. it's dilapitated in a post-revolutionary war kind of way. that's ok with me.

my guesthouse ("the base backpackers") is located on salvador allende and the 24th of june streets, a couple of blocks away from mao tse tung avenue. you get the drift. this place, comrades, is a chocked full of communists. too bad every one's making bags of money on the 24th of june street.

everything is ok. i'm practicing sayin' obligado. food is cheap. internet is cheap. people are cheery. white mingle with black... what else can a traveler ask for, eh?

travel tip #1. always get your visa at the border if possible. even if you have to grease some palms to do it.