Susa Group (Parc National des Volcans, Rwanda)

Yo, gorillas come-hither!!! Wait a minute...just human beings bushwacking through the forest...crap.

My trekking group readying for the encounter. Rwandan guys (red and beige shirts) were pretty funny. Totally outta shape and wasted by the time we got here. Kriss, hiking in her running shoes to the right. Two Italian ladies fully decked out in rain gear to the left. The tracking team is in the back to the left.

The gorilla patch. Lot's o Gorilla beringei beringei lying around. Dian Fossey was no where to be seen though... We're at an altitude of about 3200 m.

Nice Mr. Silverback....Nice Mr. Silverback. There might be 3 or 4 other males around, including younger ones, but there's not denying who is the king of the hill, eh. Our little session ended when he ended his docile ways and just took off like a bat outta hell, taking his troop with him. BTW, this is the best the pix get. I was an idiot when I left the tele zoom in the car. What was I thinking?

Didn't get a hell of alot of sleep last night. Not good when the trekker meeting at the park convened at 0700. All said, i would have felt better if the trek was yesterday. I was kind of worried about the physical effort that it might take.

Despite my logginess, I was excited to finally have my chance at finding gorillas. Grabbed breakfast, said my goodbyes to the hotel staff, and made my way through the early morning mist, about 400m down the road, to the park headquarters.

There I found about 40 people milling about. Where did they all come from? There must be much more accommodation around the village somewhere.

I checked in at the office and they still couldn't tell me if I could go today.

Only after they started placing everyone in smaller groups did I realize it was a go. The ranger charged with this duty knew about my medical history kept suggesting that I join "easier" groups [gorilla families that were easier to access] I'd come so far, paid so much money, and insisted on seeing the Susa group - the largest group in Parc National des Volcans. He relented.

I arranged transport with Sarah, Kriss, and a couple of their Rwandan friends. Sarah was an American NGO worker based in Kigali. She and her friends were producers and actors of a radio show aimed at teaching health issues to Rwandan kids. Really interesting stuff. Apparently, the show is a big hit.

It took almost an hour to get to the starting point, a nondescript village on the steep slopes of an unknown, brooding, intimidating volcano. We got out of the SUV to meet our amiable guide, Francis, and mandatory, AK-47 toting guard [ed. note: despite the ever present minute possibility of being kidnapped or being shot at, i thought the armed guard was a bit overboard].

It took an hour of slow but steady climbing through grassy terraces to reach the Park boundary which turned out to be demarcated by a long metre high perimeter stonewall and behind that a dense, dark forest of bamboo and deciduous trees. I felt good despite "getting away" with a couple of wicked coughing fits.

After a rest we walked through the gate (just a gap in the stonewall) and into the dark void of the forest. This forest was the extension of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda. I could see why it was famous for it's impenetrability, soon we were relying on a trail bushwacked by our Rwandan hosts and their machetes. If you couldn't keep up with the group you could very well get lost. I could not see more than 3 or 4 metres ahead of me sometimes. Forget about yelling for help, for at some points the vegetation was so thick it blocked any sound from escaping or entering your location, resulting in a very eerie feeling.

It was difficult slogging, made worse by mud and a relentless slope upwards. Some people in the group were brave enough to be wearing canvas top sneakers.

There were signs of mountain gorillas. Piles of gorilla kaka or nesting spots. Tantalizing thoughts of an easy find that swam in my brain were demoralizingly snuffed out several times. Onward we'd march.

Three hours into the trek, we reached a clearing (resembling the avalanche slopes back home in the Rockies). Francis scouted ahead while we took a break. In fact, he radioed ahead to the trackers (park staff whose sole responsibility it was to locate the gorillas on a day to day basis) and reported to us that we were 20 to 30 minutes away from the Susa group.

This really buoyed up my spirits as the past half hour I felt quite nauseous.

A half hour of bushwacking, and we heard a loud but muffled thud metres away and spotted 3 black human like figures swinging from thin trunked trees.

Eureka! The Susa, or at least part of it, group.

We met up with the trackers. After Francis briefed us on the etiquette of gorilla watching (i just remembered no touching and avoid eye contact if the alpha male - the silverback - decided to charge at us). we moved into the clearing where they were. Man, there must of been 25 to 30 of them! all sizes. all sexes. all ages (babies, juveniles, sub-adults to silverbacks). Francis was an incredible guide... He'd disarm the situation with a series of gorilla like grunts. He'd move us from small group to small group, telling us where to stand and where not to. We were supposed to be at least 10 feet away from any one gorilla but sometimes they'd approach to within one metre. The silverback was immense, a solid block of muscle the size of a Smart car. I was a bit anxious 'cause he could of snapped any of us like a twig. Most memorable was one of the more rambunctious young males. He'd rampage through the group then stop and beat his chest (way cooler than tarzan).

We would spend a very short hour observing them. I can honestly say that it was a lifetime experience that I will never forget. Such beautiful animals. Very sad considering that they are endangered. As we clambered and slid out of the forest, I was easy to see why their numbers are dwindling: human encroachment and habitat destruction (the landmass of Parc National des Volcans has decreased dramatically over the years plus there just isn't any buffer zone between park and surrounding farmland). In addition, the poor gorillas are subject to the horrors of poaching.

The group collected a handsome tip for the entire gorilla tracking team. In kind, each trekker received a gorilla watching diploma (which i promptly forgot in the SUV afterwards. so, i have no proof...trust me i saw them...).

I had supper with Sara and her friends that night in Ruhengeri, the closest town.

Good time had by all.

Out of Canuckistan: A travel blog, Feb 4/07
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Kinigi village, Rwanda... Breaking out the World's Smallest Violin.

I talked to Mum, Gawg, and B yesterday on my death bed. Usually I feel really good after a call from home, but man I was in a funk. I thought about the progress of the trip up to this point and about the rest of the journey through Africa. I really felt like baling out. Honestly, it was a really dark moment. My sis thought I was overly dramatic but it was exactly how I felt.

However, what a difference 24 hrs can make. I was awoken at 5 this mornin' by my dorm roomie (dormie?). I didn't mind because I thought I had one the best deep sleeps in recent memory. I felt like a million bucks, even after a shake down walk later in the morning. Felt so good I dropped by the Park office to check on tomorrow's gorilla treks. There's a 95 percent chance a spot may be open for me. Good as gravy, in my books. I think I'm gonna track me down some primates!

Matters aside, my american friend Lee ventrued back to the park yesterday for his golden monkey trek. Said the gorillas were spectacular. Good to see him. I bummed off his ibuprofen and a round of cipro (drug swapping in commonplace amongst travelers). He's a very nice person. [ed. note: i used up my last round of ciprofloaxin battling the disease. cipro is really handy, but i really don't want to abuse it and render it useless. having said that, it's difficult to obtain "real" cipro in Africa.]

Kinigi village, Rwanda...Part deux. Sick and getting sicker...

If I had to pick a spot to be stuck, Kinigi would be tops. Well, not really... Beautiful vistas complete with volcanoes but a tad chilly at nights 'cause of the altitude (2132m). BTW, Kinigi is here 1°25'57.84"S 29°35'54.59"E.

I was able to go for short walks. Good way to avoid bed sores. Nice way to meet local kids and watch country life go by.

The disease is progressing. I felt listless all day. Chilled. Convulsing. I believe the listlessness is due to starving myself. I had spaghetti tonite. It seemed to alleviate some of my loopiness. Still stricken with the intermittent crazy cough. I'm not sure whether it's a hacking or dry cough. It feels different though. Like a knife slitting my throat with a metallic after taste. I'm not exaggerating.

I should be ready to go tomorrow or the day after. I'm not exaggerating (but kind of stupid), eh. I'm leaning towards the latter option. Why push it? I'll try to eat some more and clean the equipment tomorrow.

Even though the ladies (who run the guesthouse) have been really nice to me (looking in on me, bring me tea, I can't wait to get outta this place.

[ed. note: for those wanting to travel, inevitably, you too will get sick at one point or other. you'll be exposed to some pretty nasty bugs that will absolutely knock you silly. if you can handle this aspect of travel and not let it get you down, buy a plane ticket and get your ass out there.]

Super Bowl XLII Prognostication

NY Giants 40 NE Patriots 37

Kigali, Rwanda

[ed. notes: next few posts maybe a little confusing but you may want to review by reading the "real time" posts for January 28th (rwanda, rwanda), 30th (hotel rwanda), February 14th (where's the king of scotland?), and 15th (hey look, some pix).

Since my stay in Bujumbura, my friends Samuel and Jack headed off to the DRC (the true heart of darkness, war torn as it was). I grabbed a 12 hour minibus ride (on the New Yahoo Express) to the Rwandan capital, Kigali.

Burundi is one of the most densely populated countries in the world. Tonnes of people on the road. Very mountainous terrain. Lots of deforestation. Wish I had some photos but I was unfortunately crammed into the middle of the bus. Suffice to say, it was a safe journey. No signs of civil war or flooding. however, because of the snake-like mountain roads, a fellow passenger did hurled out the window, leaving an unsightly streak of vomit the length of the bus. I think the key to traveling in places such as Burundi is to listen to local advice and ignore the Embassy (any diplomatic warning).

Rwanda turned out to be mountainous as well. Not as many people walking the roads though. Perhaps the most noticeable thing was the lack of garbage. The country is immaculately clean. I found out later that the government decreed that every Saturday be a national beautification day. This decree was instituted after the horrible genocide of 1994 to help instill a feeling of nationhood among an obviously traumatized, and divided population.

So, as I wait for more journal entries to reach their first birthdays, I've got a few photos to post of Kigali.]


the kigali genocide memorial. beautiful place for a very sad event in the history of mankind. the exhibits are very informative and top notch in quality (rivaling anything in the West and the apartheid museum in soweto, johannesburg). very thorough in presenting the history before, during, and after the horrific genocide of 1994. i thought the video clips of individual accounts of the event were particularly touching. the top floor is the genocide hall of infamy that memorializes such occurrences through out history. suffice to say, human beings do not seem to have learned from the lessons of the past. if you plan to go, entrance is free. they do have a big box for donations though. photography is prohibited inside the memorial.

photo's taken at one of the big roundabouts downtown. the biker in the photo is one of the ubiquitous boda bodas (motocycle taxis) on the streets of kigali. really cheap. really fast. really fun (i can see why people like biking). my advice is to put on that extra helmet. i saw a couple of really nasty accidents. other than the boda bodas being scary, i found kigali to be one of safest capital cities in africa.

walking around kigali is really strange, particularly after attending the genocide museum. you think just a decade ago these folks were killing each other lock stock and barrel. funny thing is, as an outsider, you can't tell who's a tutsi and who's a hutu. no one talks about the past. perhaps the most frustrating thing for a traveler is that you're never around long enough to sense if there's any underlying tension in the population. i mean there's got to be remnants of bad feelings... anyway, the photo is of me walking back to the hotel, Auberge Caverne. at 16 USD, it was the most expensive room on the trip. good value for the money though. mmmm...hot showers... little luxuries that we take for granted in Canada. the Auberge can be found at 1°56'21.77"S 30° 3'40.85"E.

look bubba's standing in front of the real Hotel Rwanda (ha! bet you were expecting the real Don Cheadle). ok, its real name is the Hotel Des Mille Collines. i should have went in to take a look at the swimming pool. shortly after this photo was taken i went to chow down on shanghai cuisine and caught a vicious cold for dessert.

hey!! look!! some pix...

hello friends,

finally some photos.

l to r: silverback mountain gorilla, one tired monkey.

note: that silverback is the head honcho of susa group, the largest habituated group of gorillas in the park at a population of 38 (including 4 silverbacks). i'm something like 4 m away.

l to r: recovering traveler, local kinigi school girl.

note: met this girl while she was walking home from school. she was showing me her families craft store. everything was going fine until she asked me to buy her a french dictionary.

where's the king of scotland? or, a valentine's special edition of bubba goes to africa.

first, happy valentine's day...especially to all my female readers, if there are any.

so much for posting some photos. i had a nice pic of a silverback gorilla petting me on the head. this stupid computer is rigged not to accept new hardware. so uncooperative.

where am I? kampala, uganda.

so much has happened since the gorillas. not.

i made it to the meeting place for gorilla trekkers. unfortunately, i was all drugged up on anti-cold medicine. i did the humanitarian thing. i thought about the possibility of wiping out the remaining 308 mountain gorillas left on the face of the planet with my disease and i promptly reported myself to the authorities. they also with extra vigour withdrew me from the expedition. damn, that was hard to swallow.

for the next 5 days i convalesced at the kinigi guesthouse. the staff, god bless their souls, thought i was on my deathbed, imploring me to see the village doctor. instead i took out the real good drugs: the ciprofloacin, the world's most powerful antibiotic.

personally, i hate self-diagnoses of diseases. it's a good drug to have but i don't want to render it useless by overuse.

anyway, i couldn't have picked a better place to be ill. kinigi is situated on the edge of parc nacional des volcans. awesome mist covered volcanoes lie close to the north and west.

during my afternoon re-hab walks, dozens of village kids would approach me for money or to have their photos taken. i concurred with the latter but declined on the former. instead of being their sole financier, i would promptly cough on them.

eventually, i got better albeit days later.

the gorillas were spectacular. we saw the dominate silverback, numerous babies, and a rambunctious blackback male who kept taking enthusiasted, thundering charges at us. lucky none of us were eaten. anyway, it took an exhausting 3 hrs. to find them, including a final hour of bushwacking with a machete.

if you have an extra $375 USD burning a hole in your pocket, i deeply recommend coming over and seeing our closest relatives in the animal kingdom in rwanda.

from rwanda, i would travel over the border to the ugandan chill out capital, the beautiful lake bunyonyi.

for 5 days i chilled out at the "resort" of boonya amagara, run by jason, the american. it was more than just a resort, it was an experiment in environmental sustainability. solar powered and installed with special composting toilets.

my advice to others who plan similar environmental projects: have back up power.

the boonya had an excellent library and movie collection.

i managed to read "a walk in the woods" by bryson, and "swahili for the broken hearted". the latter documents an aussie wanka that did what i'm doing. i'm glad i didn't read it beforehand.

i saw 3 films: borat, death of a president, and donny darko. i'm still trying to figure out donny darko. at least, i'm part of the darko cult following now.

like i said, i'm in kampala now. i'm chillin' again. actually, i'm giving the recurring cough a rest. the smog here is abysmal. that doesn't help.

i'm thinking of booking myself into the local "western" clinic to have this thing fixed once and for all.

i've gathered valuable intell. on the next leg: ethiopia. it's going to be full on travelling. so, i better get my health in check, eh.

next? denial on the nile? or, do i just wanna go whitewater rafting on it?

stay tuned my friends.

hotel rwanda

i'm lucky to be standing today. i think i caught my lastest cold. i've been on the brink lately. i was having lunch at a local chinese eatery called the shanghai restaurant (yes, run by a real chinese doctor). i ordered the beef and vegetable sizzler. it was delicious. i digress. at the end of lunch, there was a huge rainstorm. the temperature dropped. i caught a chill. the rest is history. i headed back to the hotel and crashed from 2 PM to 8 AM.

i'm quite anxious. the gorilla tour is tomorrow. you can't track them if you have an illness. gorillas are susceptible to human viruses apparently.

i feel much better today though.

went to the kigali genocide memorial a couple of days ago. a must if you are here. the exhibition itself was very well done. very emotive and shocking displays. the whole thing centred on video clips of survivors talking about their experiences. while walking around town, it's difficult to see how these people were hacking one another with machetes just 13 years ago.

rwanda, rwanda...

hello my friends,

just a quickie today.

i made it through the war zone (burundi) safely. lots of stories. i took an incredibly warped way to get into burundi but a straightforward way out.

i'm in kigali, rwanda now. safe and sound. in fact it's a really nice place.

i'll be touring town for the next couple of days.

then, i've booked a giant mist filled gorilla tour for wednesday.

i met a nice canadian girl, jennifer, she's thinking of making a brief tour into the heart of darkness, the congo, i might follow her.

be back with photos soon.

take care.