the blue list of africa...

Heading north from Sesriem to Swakopmund on the coast, the land was pretty bleak. There weren't many places to stop for gas except for an aptly named place called Solitaire.

The gas station here is famous for it's delish apple strudel. Mmmmm...fresh-out-of-the-oven 10 cm by 25 cm chunk of apple strudel. I looked for strudel in Frankfurt, Germany (waiting for the connecting flight to Jo'burg, SA) only to find out that it originated in Austria. It was ironic that I found it in Namibia (out in the middle of nowhere), a former German colony back in WWI. Anyway, I'm glad I got my studel when I did because shortly after this pic was shot, the "Rollen Hotel", a massive overland truck, rolled into the station. At least 30 German tourists piled out and they went straight for the apple strudel.

The Ultimate African Itinerary.

Recently I received an email from Aubrey (whose thinking of a prolonged 8 month trip through Africa) asking for a top ten list of must see/do's on the "dark" continent. That was a daunting task to say the least. After reviewing my responding list, I don't think I did Africa justice. Here is what I came up with:

1. Egypt. all the big sites in Cairo and along the Nile. if you want to get off the beaten path, i'd get out to siwa oasis in the west. Dahab's ok.
2. Sudan. see as much of this as possible. particularly along the Nile in the north.
3. Ethiopia. If there's only place you want to see that is Ethiopia: Simiens for walking, Lalibela, Gonder, Axum (maybe), Danikil depression (if you can afford it), Harar, Omo Valley, Gambella. you can easily kill a couple of months here. such a beautiful place. Test you mettle as a traveler though. The roads and people will challenge u.
4. Kenya. Definitely head out to Lamu on the coast. Nairobbery is not so bad. Couple of days to re-charge there. Didn't make it to lake turkana. My bad. definitely next time for me. if you make it there, please post the pix.
5. Uganda. Rafting the Nile is a must (here, Zambezi river in Zimbabwe or both). Lake Bunyonyi in the south. Kampala is pretty lively (ie. chaotic), definitely worth a visit. I was going to the north but got side tracked.
6. Rwanda. See the gorillas here. You'll be able to get permits on the spot. Pricey but worth it. Kigali is nice. Lots of genocidal memorials to visit.
7. Tanzania. I climbed Kilimanjaro a long time ago. Don't know if it's worth it anymore. it's nice up there though. Zanzibar is pretty interesting. Good source of photos. Ngorongoro crater is like a zoo (animals and tourists). I really recommend getting out to Kigoma and riding the SS Liemba down Lake Tanganyika.
8. Malawi. Another hangout spot. I'd recommend Senga Bay and Point Maclear if you want to hang out by the Lake. Livingstonia's not bad.
9. Zambia. I wish I spent more time here. Livingstone is a big tourist hangout. I believe that's your base for seeing Victoria Falls. They're pretty nice. But you can't go there without rafting the Zambezi, another must do.
10. Botswana. Expensive place but you must get to Maun and into the Okavango Delta.
11. Namibia. Etosha National Park, Swakopmund/Walvis Bay, and Sossusvlei are the must sees. in fact, if you only go on safari once, i recommend etosha.
12. South Africa. I wish I could spend more time here. Capetown and Johannesburg are nice. Kagaligadi National Park was just brilliant, really wild. The Garden Route is a bit overrated. I'd certainly check out the Otter Route next time. It's a hiking trail along the south coast.
13. Mozambique. Poor poor poor place. Maputo is a must. Pretty vibrant city. Go up to tofo if you're into snorkeling with whale sharks. You don't want to miss Ilha do Mozambique either.

Ok, I tried my best (I couldn't keep it to ten items). Just too many variables to crunch.

Tell me what you think of the list, 'cause I haven't been everywhere in Africa...

Not wanting to sound corny, I should have wrote, "go and meet the people and feel fortunate everyday that you're in Africa." Well, at least that's how I felt when I was there...

Aubrey is based in Dharamsala, India, right now, hanging out H.H. the Dalai Lama. Check out his blog Ketchup with Aubs for swell pix and stories of his travels.

Bujagali Falls, Uganda... Still Here: Part 4

this is my buddy Simon. he's the hardworking owner of the aptly named Bujagali Chapati Co. I can't remember the number of times i ate here (sometimes 3 meals a day) and the number of "rolexes" i chowed down. a rolex is sort of like a wrap: avocado, eggs, tomatoes, fries, cabbage (for dinner), bananas and honey (for brekkie) wrapped in a freshly made chapati (sort of like a fried tortilla but thicker). mmmm...they were delish... A general rule of mine is to eat out, away from the hotel. spread the wealth... often i eat street food at places like the Chapati Co.

that's lydia in the green dress. she's something like 12 or 13 yrs old. i bought about 100 bottles of drinking water from her during my time in Bujagali. i always tried to bargain down the price of water. she never did give me a good price. that's her sis on the right. kind of a hottie, eh. dunno who the little boy is.

Ed. Rock. I think the skies were about to bust open again. Always fun to slip and slide all the way down to the Chapati Co. especially at night. I stayed 13 nights here. Bill for the bunk and a couple of brewskies came to 140,400 Ugandan Shillings. An impressive amount of money at first glance but upon conversion was a measley 80 US dullah. not a bad deal...

Ed Rock gardens as seen from the restaurant. Nice to read a book, if it wasn't pouring rain.

Never a dull moment at the Rock. Found these bat-like creature hanging around while i was sipping a beer and watching Chelsea vs. Liverpool on the big screen tv.

It's time to travel once again. I shared a taxi into Jinja, the closest town of any size to Bujagali, with Ben, his wife, and Jan to get money and more importantly a bus ticket for Eldoret [Kenya]. Jinja turned out to be a pleasant town (certainly geared to the backpacker crowd): a couple of internet cafes and trendy real cafes. With the ticket in hand, I conceded the chimps of Uganda for the "next" trip.

Am I excited about moving on? Yep. It's been nearly 14 days. I think I'm prepared and well rested for the next segment. I still have bad days with the cough but they are less frequent. The fresh air of Bujagali has been a godsend. Moreover, the past 2 weeks has been most important in a psychological sense. Let's face it, I was just running on psychological fumes...the desire was waning.

[ed. note: refer to burnt]

I'm not sure how fellow travelers like Wojciech [ed. note: I follow Wojciech's travels on his blog here] do it day after day. I mean the guy must be one of the greatest contemporary travelers of our time. Really, I mean that...

I didn't do anything special other than go out for dinner with the at Mama's: basically a shack on the "main strip" that serves very very traditional Ugandan food - mainly tubers and some indistinct leafy green material. And, for the first time in days, I took pix of the new friends I've made here. I'm going to miss them.

Out of Canuckistan, Mar 1/07
Bigtubofgoo.com
Buy Bubba a Beer Now!

Bujagali Falls, Uganda... Still Here: Part 3

Well, one of the least likeable traits of mine is the inability to make a decision (I guess it's debatable in this case since I attribute this debacle to being burnt out). But, excuses aside, Father time and a looming visa expiration sometimes makes a decision for you. At that point, thinking for yourself becomes moot, a farce, a joke... By my calculations my Ugandan visa is kaput in seven days. There's no way I will renew. So, it's time to move on... It's time to meet new people.

Life here in ed. rock/bujagali falls creeps along. The days are hot. Everyday, the heat is broken by late day downpours, leading to comfortable cool evenings. The rain comes down in frightening sheets, turning the local roads into quagmires of mud and pools of runoff. Mosquitoes seem to have a minimal presence surprisingly.

My bro and mum phoned this morning. Good talking with them. Mum's expecting me to be home soon. I'm afraid with the route ahead of me that my return to Canada is tenuous at best. Until I secure my Sundanese visa, I'm not sure when I'll be home. Just as well. I'm not sure what I'd do there.

Out of Canuckistan, Feb 28/07
Bigtubofgoo.com
Buy Bubba a Beer Now!

Bujagali Falls, Uganda... Still Here: Part 2

I'm still here. I'm not quite sure why anymore. Sometimes I feel like I'm hiding from the rest of the trip Must I step back into reality? Some days I forget I'm in Africa. The "island" effect is pretty wild.

To counter the feelings of isolation, I talk with Lydia, the girl who sells me overpriced bottle water every day, along with Bill, Davis, and Sandra, at the restaurant next door at length to get myself grounded. The trip will continue...some day soon.

It's ok here in Ed Rock (good grief, I've even nicknamed the place). Ben, the manager, is overseeing a massive renovation of the premise. It's little noisy during the day but I try to get out.

Bujagali Falls, Uganda... Still Here: Part I

Still here but I'm getting the itch to move on. If I don't have this Murchison Falls thing sussed out by tonite, and if I check out financially, I should be off to Eldoret [Kenya] tomorrow or the day after. I've never stayed in one place for so long. The place has grown on me.

I've grown terribly addicted to beer, women, and mad rafting videos - not necessarily in that order.

The Czech kayakers have moved on. To my great fortune, a group of young ladies posing as volunteer teachers have moved in the dorm for the weekend.

Bujagali Falls, Uganda.

The Czech National Kayak team has moved into the dorm. They're fun. Kind of serious as well. Apparently, a lot of world class kayakers come to Bujagali Falls to train.

Happy Bday Mum!! I talked to her tonite. She sounded good. I'm sure she's fine. Having to put up with my antics over the years, she's the best...

Nothing much happening today. The TV signal's down (I love watching BBC World for research purposes of course), read some more and went down to the river. Ho hum...

Bujagali Falls, Uganda.

Nile at sunset...
Damn it, I'm still here. More photos tomorrow. Maybe I'll make a friend or two by then. Maybe not. I've got the entire bunkhouse/dorm to myself. Sweet.

[ed. note: I'm staying down the road from the NRE - Nile River Explorers hotel - in a place called the Eden Rock. The Eden Rock is a pretty cool place run by Dutch expats, Ben and his wife. It's got a big open front building that houses the restaurant/lounge and moreover, the TV w/satellite dish. In the back are individual chalets and the dorm.]

Spent most of today reading. I did do an analysis of the trip so far. It doesn't look good. Bad time/pace management. To review, at the beginning of this month I was lying on my death bed at the Kinigi Guesthouse. How times have changed...with the rafting and all. The pace is now non-existent once again. Must relax... embrace the chillin'.

I talked to an American guy today at the NRE. I recognized him from the day I went rafting. His name is Greg. He's from Arizona, spending some time here in Uganda volunteering. This may be a contradiction in terms but he's a rich artist. He suggested that real estate is the way to go and I should read his bible, "Rich Dad Poor Dad". He owns 5 houses for chrissakes. Just charge 2 percent of the original investment and you'll own the sucker within 4 years. Sounds good... I love making friends...

Kampala, Uganda - More monkey business...

monkeys, monkeys everywhere...especially the ubiquitous vervet monkeys (Chlorocebus pygerythrus)

Sometimes I really don't know what the hell I'm doing...

I failed to book a tour to Murchison Falls. It seems like a really popular spot. Chimps will have to wait till Trip 3, whenever that is.

I've decided to go rafting on the nile river this Saturday. Aaron, the friendly English bloke, wants to tag along.

The rapids on the Nile are legendary. Huge waves that eat naive little white peeps like me. It should be fun, sort of. I say that with a bit of apprehension. There's a part of me enjoys an adrenaline rush. There's another part that has seen the bright light at the end of the tunnel on another African river called the Zambezi.

How many times must I stare death in the face before I stop doing these things?

I'm gonna go to Jinja and do my best and have as much fun as possible. Yep, damn it's gonna be a rip roaring good time...even if i crap in my shorts.

Kampala, Uganda (happy valentine's day)

[ed. note: just wanted to wish my loyal readers, if there are any, a happy valentine's day, especially to my lady readers (now i'm really pushing the envelope on the BTOG readership)]

i came halfway 'round the planet to set sight on the elusive Shoebill, Balaeniceps rex, perhaps the rarest of Ugandan birds...

a beautiful bird...mama must be very proud...

Went out for cappuccinos with Jason today, followed by a little shopping, then lunch at a Mexican restaurant. Gotta love Kampala.

Other than that I'm trying my best to get out of here. There's a chance for cheap chimp viewing up north in Murchison Falls National Park. My luck. There's conflicting info between the Lonely Planet (says it's possible) and the National Reserve Website (no mention of any facilities). Logistically, the Busingiro site might be a bargain, but it's gonna be tough to get to and when I get there I'm gonna have to improvise some camping equipment.

Kampala, Uganda

[ed. note: hell, i think i spent another couple of days at the Lake. Very difficult to leave. From the island, I had to get retrace my tracks to Kabale to catch the bus from hell to the Ugandan capital of Kampala. Along the way, I crossed the Equator (then re-crossed it) for the first time overland. Appropriately, the imaginary line was marked by real big pothole, amongst innumerable potholes in the so-called road.]

Still recovering from the Kabale bus ride. It had to be in the Top 3 worst. Freakin' death trap. Got stuck in the backseat holding a piece of plastic against the glassless window to keep from freezing.

I've been basking in the thick smog of Kampala for the last couple of days at the Backpackers Hostel. Seems like an alright place - peaceful enough. It's packed with, ya know backpackers...fortunately, i haven't...

[ed. note: once in awhile i find myself staying at one of these tourist enclaves. they're pretty much mixed blessings. on one hand they could be really good places to gather information for onward travel or to hang out with other white people - mzungus. on the other hand, if you're not careful, they tend to insulate you from the locals.]

seen any overland trucks roll in. I've met some pretty interesting people so far: Jason, whom I met out in Bunyonyi, is here (small world), another Canadian guy named DJ, from Nova Scotia, and Aaron, a nice English bloke. DJ is a teacher on the run. Funny thing is he's been at the Backpackers for over 2 months now. He says he's burnt out after traveling from Europe, thru the Middle East, Sudan/Ethiopia and now here. 2 months...I thought i was burnt.

Kampala's been OK. It's chaotic. Went out to dinner with a swell Swedish couple last night for delicious Indian food. So, on the way, got a taste of the crazy traffic and hellish bus station. I've never seen such a quagmire. Today, I went for a boda boda (motorbike) ride downtown. It's a fast way to get around but you absolutely take your life into your own hands. Lots o' really close calls [I wish the damn traffic lights worked. Hell, what am I saying, there'd be noncompliance whatsoever] . Not for the feint-hearted.

In addition to the traffic, during the day, it's wall to wall people walking downtown. The unusual thing is the fact that I don't feel my life is in danger at any time. Weird but good.

With all this traffic, the air is pretty filthy and that's bad for my outmatched lungs. I still have the occasional coughing fits that I imported from Rwanda. To make things work I've felt quite rundown since getting here. I'm hoping it's from excessive road travel and nothing else. I need rest...

Advice of the day: my new friend Aaron is traveling in the opposite direction than I. He says to stay out of Isiolo (Kenya), on the way to Ethiopia.

Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda, Day 4.

Day 4 at the Lake. If there was anything that i could have prescribed for my recovery, it's the Boonya. So quiet here. Day slips into night and night into day. I've had difficulties keeping track of the time i've spent here. Life has fallen into a rhythm of sorts. Reading/writing, walking, or lounging around during the day [Jason, an expat Canadian bloke trapped here with me, was foolish enough to teach me how to play backgammon. Fun but I really suck at it]. I watch with amazement the regular late afternoon downpour. Then chow down on some really delicious food they serve here. then settle down to watching movies or the starry skies during the night.

Idyllic as the the setting is, it's time. Time to move on. Some observations I've made while sequestered on the island:

1) environmental sustainability means smelly toilets and intermittent electricity. have some sort of back up electricity. not essential. just a suggestion.

2) The more I chill out the less I feel chilled out. It's a fatal flaw in my genetic makeup.

3) The Lake needs a beach.

4) I love the bird life here. So many pretty birds.

5) This isn't the real Africa...is it? Doesn't really matter.

It's time to go. Pick up the pace a bit. It's been a long trip so far. The pacing has been erratic at best. That may or maybe my fault. I should just relax.

I talked to my bro this morning. It'd be nice to see him in person.

Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

It's not easy gettin' to the Boonya Amagara Lodge. From Kabale it's another hair raising boda boda ride. Then, once at the lake, I had to take a dug out canoe out to the island resort. Nice peaceful smooth ride...

Beauty, eh. This is on the way to the hut I rented out for 12000 Ugandan shillings per night...that's $6.34 USD. What was I thinkin'? I'm not exactly Mr. Money Bags you know...
My geo-hut. Home away from home. For $6.34, you'd expect a door, eh. Kidding aside I didn't need one despite a pretty good rainstorm that night.

Ahhh...nice view out the front.

A torturous, twisted, undulating road from Kisoro to Kabale (made worse by the insane bus driver). The scenery was breathtaking though. I didn't think this part of Uganda was so mountainous. Hardly wilderness area, the cultivated terraces raced from valley bottoms to mountain tops. My advice to people with tender bottoms or who are time challenged, is to head back to Kigali from Ruhengeri. The roads in Rwanda are smooth as a baby's bottom. Plus the cost of being stuck in Kisoro is exacting.

I'm here at the Boonya Amagara Lodge (1°18'4.58"S 29°56'20.25"E), on the shores of the beautiful Lake Bonyonyi. I picked up a brochure way back in Kigali advertising this place. Owned by Jeremy, an ex-pat American, the Lodge is touted as a backpacker's paradise with an environmentally friendly design (solar powered, compost toilets, etc). This area is supposed to be jam packed with recreational and cultural (volunteering) opportunities that Jeremy runs out of the lodge. I'm just looking to chill out after the hell I went through the last while. I took a quickie tour of the "lodge" and found a well stocked library. It's like I died and gone to heaven (this place is close enough) unless they have overdue fines.

I splurged and booked myself into a "geo-dome". The view out the front deck is quite stunning. There's two beds. I thought I had the whole place to myself but found out that a roomie was moving in for the night. Pretty expensive dorm, eh. No worries because I learned that I'm being kick out tomorrow... Such is life in Africa...just be glad you have a roof over your head.

Kisoro, Uganda

All in all, moved a pathetic 100 km today to cross the border into Uganda. Woke up late. Must have been really wacked by the gorilla trek yesterday. Then had to change money. This is one of those few times where I didn't have enough local currency to get to the border. Then I had to find transport in a chaotic bus yard. The conductor of the first border minibus was asking for an exorbitant tourist fare. Must have been double the regular fare. Tough to tell. It still costs nothing (a couple of bucks USD) in terms of "real" world prices but I decided to take the next bus (just to spite the first guy).

[ed. note: i can go on and on about "tourist prices" but, suffice to say, it happens everywhere i go. it's quite irritating but what can you do? there is no shame in ripping off tourists. most africans would rather see you walk than bargain with you. it's illogical. their philosophy is that if you don't try you won't get; hence, i nicknamed africa "the land of trying".]

The minibus ride to the border is quick and straight forward. The border proceedings went semi-well. The Rwandan official wanted to know where my Burundian exit stamp was in my passport. Right where it's supposed to be. But really, who gives a rat's ass, eh? After dodging a mob of money changers, on the Ugandan side I was almost set up for a blind date with the visa guy's youngest.

There was no public transport to the next town, Kisoro, other than the now familiar motorcycle taxis. Logistically challenging to say the least because of my huge backpack. I mentioned this to my hired gun and without hesitation he slung the bulky bag across the front of his bike: the bottom of the pack resting on the gas tank with the rest cantilevered over the handle bars. i climbed aboard in the back and off we went, speeding along a muddy red soiled road. We must have looked ridiculously funny.

Once in Kisoro, I immediately hit the Standbic Bank. According to the Lonely Planet, it wasn't possible to get money out of the ATMs in Uganda [ed. note: not so as it turned out.]. So, I got into teller line up, a decision that would cost me the entire afternoon to exchange a bloody 100 USD.

There must have been 20 people ahead of me, waiting for 2 tellers. Not bad. The problem was people kept cutting into line or those in front were accepting transactions from others. I've never been more frustrated in a bank. 2 hours later, you got that right, I managed to change my money. The bank manager gave me some lame excuse as to why it took so long and, at the end of the day, the most important thing was I got served. If I only had a rocket launcher, you idiot...

By the time I escaped the bank, the sun was already going down. So, I was stuck in Kisoro for the night. It proved to be a 2 street town. Kind of dumpy, but had 2 internet cafes. I'm in heaven. Not. The Virungu Hotel was described as a nerve centre for travelers who used it as a jump off point for gorilla viewing in near by Congo. It was dead (and overpriced - my bad). I had to unwind from such a crazy day. So, I headed over to an old stomping ground of Dian Fossey's, the Traveler's Rest Hotel. No sign of Dian. But I sensed her presence. It's a pretty high classed joint now. The beer was overpriced but, damn, it went down real good...

burnt

hello my friends,

first of all, shout out to my sis. she's having fun in NZ for the next 3 weeks. have fun BB!! you deserve a break today.

still in bujagali. yes, still.

everyone, from lydia, the watergirl, to simon at the bujagali chipati company knows intimate details about yours truly now. everyone greets me by name and asks about my mum's gallbladder operation.

seriously, i think i'm really burnt out from traveling.

good thing everyone's nice at the Ed. Rock (short for Eden Rock) Resort. AND, there's satellite tv for moments when i'm not reading a book.

i went to the Black Lantern last night. it's the poshest restaurant in bujagali. had their famous pork spareribs. not the baby back ribs exactly, however, the meat was tender and barely hanging on to the bone if you know what i mean. mmmm... good splurge for the M/C.

stay tuned for more blubberings.

couldn't resist...

thought i'd post some more whitewater rafting pics. looks like a riot, eh?

i forgot to wish my mum a happy birthday.

i'm still in bujagali falls. i've never stayed in one place for such a long time (goin on a week, eh). now i'm addicted to beer, women and mad rafting videos (not necessarily in that order). oh well, the addiction could have been to crack cocaine or something like that.

having been here for awhile, i feel the itch to move on. perhaps kenya?

note: i'm thinking of whitewater photography as my next career. too bad it entails something really terrifying: kayaking, eh.

another day at the office...

it seems every 10 years or so i must stare into the face of death. i dunno why.

you can cheat death so many times. one of these days death is going to win out. but in the meantime, i'll continue to raft rivers like the nile.

you heard it here, i'm chillin' out by the banks of the nile river at bujagali falls, uganda.

where's the king of scotland? or, a valentine's special edition of bubba goes to africa.

first, happy valentine's day...especially to all my female readers, if there are any.

so much for posting some photos. i had a nice pic of a silverback gorilla petting me on the head. this stupid computer is rigged not to accept new hardware. so uncooperative.

where am I? kampala, uganda.

so much has happened since the gorillas. not.

i made it to the meeting place for gorilla trekkers. unfortunately, i was all drugged up on anti-cold medicine. i did the humanitarian thing. i thought about the possibility of wiping out the remaining 308 mountain gorillas left on the face of the planet with my disease and i promptly reported myself to the authorities. they also with extra vigour withdrew me from the expedition. damn, that was hard to swallow.

for the next 5 days i convalesced at the kinigi guesthouse. the staff, god bless their souls, thought i was on my deathbed, imploring me to see the village doctor. instead i took out the real good drugs: the ciprofloacin, the world's most powerful antibiotic.

personally, i hate self-diagnoses of diseases. it's a good drug to have but i don't want to render it useless by overuse.

anyway, i couldn't have picked a better place to be ill. kinigi is situated on the edge of parc nacional des volcans. awesome mist covered volcanoes lie close to the north and west.

during my afternoon re-hab walks, dozens of village kids would approach me for money or to have their photos taken. i concurred with the latter but declined on the former. instead of being their sole financier, i would promptly cough on them.

eventually, i got better albeit days later.

the gorillas were spectacular. we saw the dominate silverback, numerous babies, and a rambunctious blackback male who kept taking enthusiasted, thundering charges at us. lucky none of us were eaten. anyway, it took an exhausting 3 hrs. to find them, including a final hour of bushwacking with a machete.

if you have an extra $375 USD burning a hole in your pocket, i deeply recommend coming over and seeing our closest relatives in the animal kingdom in rwanda.

from rwanda, i would travel over the border to the ugandan chill out capital, the beautiful lake bunyonyi.

for 5 days i chilled out at the "resort" of boonya amagara, run by jason, the american. it was more than just a resort, it was an experiment in environmental sustainability. solar powered and installed with special composting toilets.

my advice to others who plan similar environmental projects: have back up power.

the boonya had an excellent library and movie collection.

i managed to read "a walk in the woods" by bryson, and "swahili for the broken hearted". the latter documents an aussie wanka that did what i'm doing. i'm glad i didn't read it beforehand.

i saw 3 films: borat, death of a president, and donny darko. i'm still trying to figure out donny darko. at least, i'm part of the darko cult following now.

like i said, i'm in kampala now. i'm chillin' again. actually, i'm giving the recurring cough a rest. the smog here is abysmal. that doesn't help.

i'm thinking of booking myself into the local "western" clinic to have this thing fixed once and for all.

i've gathered valuable intell. on the next leg: ethiopia. it's going to be full on travelling. so, i better get my health in check, eh.

next? denial on the nile? or, do i just wanna go whitewater rafting on it?

stay tuned my friends.